So the run-out style of the pro used on the first ascent (and “also rather dangerous” in the words of Della Bordella) seems to be the focus of this new route. Some sections, it has to be said, are also rather dangerous.” But Infinite Jest has many 7a/7b pitches which really mustn’t be underestimated, because of the technical climbing and the run-out gear you can’t climb quickly and even if the route is only 17 pitches long, doing it in a day proved tough. Della Bordella, Auguadri, Linescio) or Il mito della caverna (Editor’s note: in Val Bavona) have obligatory sections which are harder. The obligatory grade is not particularly high and routes like Non è un paese per vecchi (Editor’s note: 430m, 7c+ max, 7b+/7c obl. And that both Coelophysis and Infinite Jest are some of the longest, if not the longest even, routes in Wenden – Coelophysis is 5 pitches longer than “Infinite Jest”.ĭella Bordella sheds some light onto the difficulties: “overall the route is slightly more demanding that Coelophysis. It has to be said that Wenden has a reputation for unstable weather. Add to this a month enforced rest as Della Bordella injured an ankle during a fall, as well as 10 useless trips due to either rain or “unclimbable” conditions on the mountain.
In total “Infinite” required 14 days (6 spent freeing the line), spread out over three years. It is unsurprising therefore that “works” on Infinite Jest began in 2008, the very same year that Matteo Della Bordella redpointed the 4th pitch and freed all of Coelophysis. Or rather, something clicked, perhaps subconsciously, during their first ascent of Coelophysis, the route (650m 8a max, 7b obl.) which the two Ragni di Lecco members traced just to the left of Infinite Jest. The idea for this new route came to Palma and Della Bordella while in the field. By no means easy, seeing that Matteo Della Bordella concluded the first free ascent in a day by stating “this time it proved tough”…īut let’s take a step back in time. Established by the Italians Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma, it is certainly a great climbing journey. The route boasts 17 pitches and difficulties up to 8a+/8b, with obligatory 7b. And tackles the great Mahren rock face, right in the heart of the “holy” Wendenstöcke. On Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma made the first one-day ascent of their “Infinite Jest” (640m 8a+/8b max, 7b obl.), the new route forged by the Ragni di Lecco members up the Mahren rock face in Wenden, Switzerland.
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